If your friends and tech YouTubers have finally convinced you to upgrade to a mechanical keyboard, but you don’t know where to start, you’ve come to the right place. In this guide, I’ll cover everything you need to know before getting your first mechanical keyboard in the simplest way possible. Let’s get started.
Mechanical, Hall effect, TMR, Topre: Different technologies explained
While this guide will largely focus on mechanical keyboards, you can’t talk about them without at least touching on some of the alternative keyboard technologies on the market. So, here’s a quick overview before we dive deeper into mechanical keyboards.
Let’s start with mechanical switches. Unlike membrane keyboards that use a rubber sheet, each mechanical switch has its own moving mechanism. When you press a key, the stem (the part of the switch that the keycap is attached to, which you physically push) moves downward, causing two metal contacts (the leaf) inside the switch to touch and register the keystroke. A spring underneath the stem provides resistance as you press and pushes the key back up when you release it, ready for the next keystroke.
Magnetic switches use a similar design to mechanical switches, but instead of metal contacts, there’s a tiny magnet inside the stem that moves up and down as you press and release the key. In a Hall Effect (HE) keyboard, an HE sensor detects changes in the magnetic field and sends a signal.
In a TMR keyboard, the process is almost identical, but the sensor measures changes in magnetic resistance, which is more precise and efficient. Some TMR keyboards are built on hybrid PCBs, allowing them to be compatible with both magnetic and mechanical switches, leaving just one potential drawback: cost.
Move Over Hall Effect: Why TMR Mechanical Keyboards Are the Future
Hall Effect keyboards were proof of concept, but TMR is the real deal.
In either case, the sensor can detect the exact travel distance of the stem and magnet, allowing you to adjust the actuation point—the point at which a keypress is registered. A low actuation point, such as 1.2 mm, registers early in the keystroke, while a high actuation point, like 3.0 mm, requires pressing the key almost all the way down.
Keyboards with magnetic switches are more advanced than traditional mechanical ones and offer features like Rapid Trigger and SOCD, making them ideal for gaming. However, most don’t feel as satisfying as a good mechanical switch. Aside from their improved durability and extra customization, they may not be worth the extra cost if you’re simply looking for a keyboard that feels nice to type on.
Topre switches are a special type of electrocapacitive switch. They work somewhat like traditional membrane keyboards but include a conical spring inside the rubber dome, giving them a hybrid feel between mechanical and membrane switches. They’re rare and generally more expensive than budget mechanical keyboards, but they’re an excellent choice if you like the feel of membrane keyboards and want something familiar yet upgraded.
Mechanical Keyboards Actually Aren’t for Everyone (And That’s Okay)
Not everyone likes thocky keys and chunky keycaps.
Custom vs. prebuilt keyboards
When you go deep into the mechanical keyboard rabbit hole, enthusiasts will tell you that only a custom $700 keyboard is worth using and that everything else is for plebeians. I’m exaggerating a bit, of course—you can build a custom keyboard for under $200, and probably under $100 if you grab a barebones kit that just needs switches and keycaps.
Custom keyboard enthusiasts have a point, though—with a custom build, you can cherry-pick everything from the switches and keycaps to the case (the body of the keyboard) and even the types of sound-dampening materials.
If you already have a rough idea of what you want, this isn’t a bad option, but be prepared to pay a little extra. Personally, I recommend opting for a pre-built model as a beginner.
They’re cheaper, and there are so many decent options that you don’t even have to do anything to enjoy a great keyboard. That said, you can still do some modding, like swapping keycaps. And if the keyboard is hot-swappable, you can easily replace the switches, which are the parts that define how the keyboard sounds and feels. Everything else can usually be improved with inexpensive DIY mods.
I Build My Own Mechanical Keyboards, and You Can Too
The best keyboard is the one you build yourself.
Choosing the right layout
When I say “layout” in the context of mechanical keyboards, I’m not necessarily referring to “QWERTY,” “QWERTZ,” “AZERTY,” and other character layouts. I’m talking about the size of the keyboard and the number of keys. Here are some of the most common layouts you’ll encounter and what they mean:
- 100% (Full-size): Has all standard keys, including a full numpad, function row, arrow keys, and navigation keys.
- TKL (Tenkeyless, 87%): Removes the numpad to allow more mouse space on the right.
- 75%: Similar to TKL in the number of keys but with a more compact layout. Usually removes a few navigation keys like Insert, Print Screen, or Page Up/Page Down.
- 65%: Removes the function row and sometimes some navigation keys.
- 60%: Removes arrow keys and the navigation cluster, usually relying on layered (Fn) keys to access missing keys.
Note that as you go smaller, additional keys from the previous size are also missing. There are sub-sizes in between these layouts, such as 96%, 80%, and even 40%. The percentage is always in relation to a standard keyboard. You may even come across terms like 110%, which refers to keyboards that add macro keys in addition to all the standard ones.
One of the most popular choices is the basic 75% layout. This layout takes up significantly less desk space, giving your mouse more room, and also positions your shoulders in a more neutral and comfortable angle, while still retaining all the keys you typically need. It’s my favorite layout as well, and I don’t think I could ever opt for anything smaller or larger.
In the case of ergonomic layouts like the Alice layout and split keyboards, they can have different numbers of keys as well, but they largely follow the same percentage system. Ergonomic keyboards are a fantastic alternative to typical flat keyboards and are worth considering if you’re willing to pay a bit more for improved wrist, arm, and shoulder comfort.
As for ANSI vs. ISO layouts, it’s just a matter of where some of the keys are and their shape. ISO has a smaller left-side Shift key and a large Enter L-shape enter key compared to ANSI. ANSI is the more popular layout in the US and has more keycap options, and the large Shift key is generally more comfortable to use, though it’s all a matter of personal preference.
Understanding the different switch types
Perhaps the most overwhelming aspect of mechanical keyboards is all the different switches you can buy. But let’s start at the beginning. The mechanical switch market was largely started by German computer peripheral manufacturer Cherry in 1983 with the Cherry MX Black.
Since then, numerous manufacturers have used this MX-style switch design to create their own switches, many drawing inspiration from the first few types that Cherry introduced: the Cherry MX Reds (linear), Browns (tactile), and Blues (clicky), with the colors referring to the stem. Many manufacturers have since moved on from this color-coding, so don’t worry too much about it.
Instead, let’s focus on what differentiates these three types of switches:
- Linear: A smooth, quiet keystroke that feels consistent from top to bottom.
- Tactile: As you press the key, you’ll feel a noticeable “bump” that indicates the keystroke has been registered.
- Clicky: Combines a tactile bump with an audible click caused by a separate piece of plastic that hits the bottom of the switch housing.
Actuation force, or weight, is another crucial factor. Some switches can be very heavy and require over 80g of force to register a keystroke, while others are very light and only need around 35g.
All of these factors come down to personal preference, and I assure you, there are at least a dozen different options regardless of what you like. Don’t worry too much about housing and stem materials like POM or POK for now, as you can easily check if you like the sound of a switch by looking up a sound test on YouTube.
That’s why I strongly recommend trying all types of switches and testing different actuation weights in a store or by ordering a switch tester before committing to a switch type. Once you know the type you prefer (e.g., linear) and have a rough idea of the weight you like (e.g., 45g), it’s easy to find a few options that fit your preferences—like the Cherry MX Reds, KTT Hyacinth, HMX Amber, Akko Starlit, and so on.
- Type
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Mechanical
- Brand
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Akko
The Akko 16-Key Switch Tester is an affordable and compact acrylic tool that lets you try 16 different mechanical switches, including linear, tactile, and clicky types. It’s durable, portable, and includes a dust-proof cover.
Silent switches also deserve a mention. These switches can be either linear or tactile, but their main distinguishing feature is the tiny pads inside the stem that cushion the keystroke for a significantly quieter bottom-out sound. If you work in an office, they’re an excellent alternative.
Picking the right keycaps
Keycaps are another surprisingly deep topic when it comes to mechanical keyboards. Their shape and material can have a major impact on how your keyboard looks, sounds, and feels.
Contoured keycap profiles like OEM and Cherry are generally more ergonomic, whereas flat profiles like XDA and DSA feel more like typing on a laptop keyboard. This is largely a matter of personal preference, but I think the best starting point for most beginners is the Cherry profile.
When it comes to materials, there are plenty of exotic options, but the most common are ABS and PBT plastics.
ABS tends to become shiny and wear down more quickly, while PBT is more durable and has a matte finish, which is why it’s the go-to choice for most enthusiasts. As for looks and colors, that’s entirely up to you. If you’re buying new keycaps, just make sure they’re compatible with your keyboard’s layout, though most are fairly universal.
Plastic or aluminum case: Which one is better?
The most common materials used to make keyboard cases (the body of the keyboard) are various types of plastic and metal, usually aluminum. If your mind immediately jumps to aluminum as the better and more premium option, you wouldn’t be entirely wrong. After all, it is the “nicer” of the two. However, you shouldn’t dismiss plastic cases entirely.
I personally prefer plastic, as it feels softer to type on and can more easily achieve a thocky sound profile. They’re also lighter, making them easier to carry when you travel. Most importantly, plastic is far cheaper, so overall, it’s not a bad option—and you shouldn’t pay more for aluminum just because you assume it’ll make for a better keyboard. Aluminum is more durable and heavy, but a well-made plastic board can sound just as good.
Mounting styles: Gasket, tray, or integrated plate?
Mounting style refers to how the switch plate and PCB are attached to the keyboard’s case. There are several different mounting styles, including tray, top, bottom, sandwich, plateless, integrated plate, and gasket. Some feel firmer and produce a more clacky sound, while others feel softer and create a deeper, more thocky sound profile.
Gasket mount is all the rage these days and is generally regarded as one of the best options (though it’s still a matter of personal preference). Gasket-mounted keyboards use small silicone gaskets to absorb vibrations and cushion keystrokes, resulting in a softer, more flexible typing experience.
Integrated plate designs are essentially the opposite—the top frame doubles as the switch plate, creating a much stiffer and clackier feel. The other mounting styles fall somewhere in between.
Stabilizers: Small parts, big impact
Stabilizers (or stabs) are small components made of plastic housings and metal wires that you’ll find on larger keys like the spacebar, Enter, Shift, and Backspace. Their job is to keep the key level when pressed.
There are two main types of stabs: plate-mounted and PCB-mounted. Plate-mounted stabilizers clip directly into the plate above the PCB, making them the most common and easiest to mod if needed. PCB-mounted stabs can be either screw-in, which are secured with small screws for maximum stability, or clip-in. They are more common in high-end keyboards.
This isn’t something you need to worry about too much at the moment, as even basic stabs can be easily “tuned” (straightening the wire) and lubricated to achieve a quieter, more satisfying feel.
Flex cut PCB, sound dampening layers, knobs, screens, and all the other features
Now that you know the basics, let’s go over some terms you’ll encounter in marketing materials when looking at keyboards. One such term is flex-cut PCB, which refers to cutouts on the PCB that allow the keyboard to flex more when pressed, resulting in a softer bottoming out. This effect can be especially noticeable if the keyboard is also gasket-mounted.
Sound-absorption layers are also worth mentioning, though there are so many ways to add sound-damping layers that it’s impossible to cover them all. Materials like IXPE switch pad foam and Poron (used both between the plate and PCB and underneath the PCB) are great to look for if you want a thocky keyboard. Silicone bottom pads are also useful, especially in plastic keyboards, because they add some heft and absorb vibrations and noise.
Ultimately, it’s all relative and can be easily modded, but it’s still nice to see a prebuilt keyboard that includes several layers, so you have less work, assuming you care about how your keyboard sounds in the first place.
Some features to pay attention to include RGB (or white) backlighting, front or side backlighting cutouts, volume knobs or rollers, screens, and various other gimmicks. Admittedly, aside from the volume knob, most of these features aren’t particularly useful, but you should buy a keyboard that you enjoy using, so get them if you like them! I personally love my gimmicky little keyboard screens.
I Refuse to Buy a Keyboard Without a Screen
I can live without a screen on my keyboard, but why should I?
Software is where good keyboards differentiate themselves
The software or firmware a keyboard supports is one of its most important aspects, since you can’t really change it later. Support for QMK (Quantum Mechanical Keyboard firmware)/VIA web software is the de facto standard for mechanical keyboards, as it allows you to reliably customize your lighting and key bindings. I love my Ajazz AK820 Pro, but I’m not particularly fond of the software it uses. While it does save some of my key bindings, others only work when the keyboard is in wireless mode.
Admittedly, not everyone cares about creating custom actions on their keyboards, but VIA support is a huge benefit if you do. At the very least, make sure that the software a keyboard uses is decent and not some half-baked program that rarely receives updates.
Do you need wireless?
Wireless (either 2.4GHz, Bluetooth, or both) is another feature that you either can’t live without or may never use.
I personally don’t care too much if a keyboard doesn’t have wireless, but that’s only because I already own two wireless keyboards. I usually keep them wired on my desk, but sometimes, if I feel like resting my legs, I’ll move the keyboard into my lap so I can type more comfortably in a reclined position. I also sometimes use the keyboard with a mouse in bed to game on my TV, but that’s only when I’m not using my controller. Thanks to low-latency 2.4GHz wireless, that’s an option you can have.
Depending on the manufacturer, the wireless version of a keyboard may cost only a little extra (maybe $10 to $20), so if there’s even a chance you’ll use wireless mode, I’d say it’s worth paying the extra cost.
Think You Need a Wired Mouse and Keyboard for Gaming? Think Again
Cut the cord.
Hot-swappable switches are an essential feature
Unlike wireless, which is nice to have but optional, you really shouldn’t buy a mechanical keyboard that doesn’t have hot-swappable switches.
This refers to a special connector installed on the PCB of the keyboard. A hot-swappable socket allows you to remove switches with a simple switch puller, and installing new ones is as easy as pushing them in. (Just make sure to check if your board supports 3-pin or 5-pin switches, though 5-pin is becoming the standard.) This is a huge improvement over having to disassemble the entire keyboard and use a soldering iron to remove and install switches.
Even if you never plan to upgrade your mechanical switches, it’s still a fantastic feature because it allows for easy repairability. You don’t even have to buy new switches to fix one that’s broken or registering inputs inconsistently; you can simply swap in a fresh switch from a key you rarely use, and that’s it.
Don’t Limit Yourself to One Type of Switch on Your Mechanical Keyboard
Variety is the spice of typing.
Thanks to this guide, you now have all the knowledge you need to shop for a new keyboard. Whether you’re planning to build a custom model, get a pre-built one, or something in between, you now know how to choose the right switches, which features are worth paying extra for, which keycaps to get, and much more. Have a satisfying time building and typing!
- Form factor
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TKL
- Switch options
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Red, Brown
The Keychron V3 is the perfect mechanical keyboards for beginners. It’s a well-built model, has hot-swappable switches, and QMK/VIA support.